FAQs
HVAC
That burning plastic smell from your heater could mean something melted inside. Maybe a toy or debris got sucked in. Shut off the system and try to remove the object yourself. If that doesn't work, call the professionals for help. Don't risk further damage.
Modern gas furnaces include multiple safety controls that shut down the system if unsafe conditions are detected. While the risk of fire or explosion is very low, a gas leak, cracked heat exchanger, or electrical short is serious. If you smell gas or suspect a malfunction, turn off the furnace, ventilate the area, and call a licensed technician.
Vinegar‑like odors can come from:
- Ozone produced by certain electric motors
- Organic growth on coils from moisture buildup
- A clogged condensate line or dirty filter restricting airflow Schedule a professional cleaning, replace filters routinely, and clear the condensate line. If odors persist, have the system inspected for microbial growth.
Common reasons include restricted airflow (dirty filter, blocked returns), tripped breakers, failed capacitors or blower motors, low refrigerant from a leak, or a safety switch lockout (float switch). A trained technician can diagnose quickly and provide transparent repair options.
Yes. A pro can route refrigerant lines and condensate through ceilings or closets to reach the outdoor unit. A site visit determines the most energy‑efficient and cost‑effective path, proper line lengths, and drain routing.
Replace 1‑inch filters every 60–90 days; monthly if you have pets, smoke, allergies, or heavy dust. Thicker media filters (3–5 inches) can last 6–12 months. Always use the filter size and MERV rating your system is designed for to avoid airflow restriction.
Ice indicates low airflow (dirty filter, closed vents, dirty coil) or low refrigerant from a leak. Turn the system off to thaw, replace the filter, open vents, and schedule service to check coils, blower operation, and refrigerant charge.
Twice per year—once in spring for cooling and once in fall for heating. Tune‑ups include coil cleaning, electrical checks, refrigerant evaluation, airflow testing, and safety controls. Regular maintenance improves efficiency, reliability, and system life.
Causes include duct leaks, poor insulation, closed or undersized vents, unbalanced dampers, or solar gain. Solutions range from duct sealing and balancing to adding returns, adjusting dampers, or zoning. A room‑by‑room airflow assessment pinpoints the fix.
SEER2 is the updated efficiency rating that better reflects real‑world performance. Newer SEER2 systems use advanced compressors and fan controls to cut energy use and improve comfort. If your unit is older than 10–12 years or needs frequent repairs, an upgrade can lower bills and improve reliability.
Check for a dirty filter, tripped breaker, incorrect thermostat settings, or iced coils. If those are fine, you may have a refrigerant leak, failed capacitor, bad contactor, or compressor issue. Shut the system off and schedule diagnostics to prevent further damage.
Proper sizing requires a Manual J load calculation that accounts for square footage, insulation, windows, orientation, and air leakage. Oversized systems short‑cycle and waste energy; undersized systems run constantly and struggle in peak heat.
Plumbing
Low pressure can come from many issues: too many fixtures running at once, clogged aerators, scale buildup, partially closed valves, a failing pressure regulator (PRV), or a hidden leak. If pressure drops suddenly, call a licensed plumber to test pressure, inspect valves, and check for leaks.
Slow drains, gurgling sounds, foul sewage odors, recurring clogs, discolored water, damp spots on walls or floors, and unexpectedly high water bills all indicate it’s time to call for service.
Typically 8–12 years for standard tanks, 10–20 years for tankless. Lifespan depends on water quality, usage, maintenance, and installation quality. Annual flushing and anode checks extend tank life.
As needed for most homes; heavy‑use kitchens or multi‑unit buildings benefit from proactive cleaning every 1–3 years. If you experience recurring clogs, consider a camera inspection to identify underlying pipe issues.
A waterproof camera is run through drains to view the inside of your sewer line, locating root intrusion, bellies, offsets, cracks, or grease. The video helps target repairs and verify cleaning results.
A sulfur odor usually indicates hydrogen sulfide from bacteria in the water heater or well. Solutions include flushing and disinfecting the heater, replacing the anode rod, shocking a well, or installing treatment like carbon filtration or oxidation systems.
Warm or damp floor spots, running water sounds when taps are off, moldy odors, cracked tile, or rising water bills. Shut off water and call for acoustic/thermal leak detection to pinpoint the leak and discuss repair options (direct access, reroute, or repipe).
Yes, in many cases. Hard water causes scale in heaters and appliances, reduces soap effectiveness, and leaves spots. Softening protects equipment, improves cleaning, and can lower energy use; many pair it with reverse osmosis for drinking water.
Turn off the main water valve (or fixture shutoff), open a faucet to relieve pressure, switch off water heater power or gas if necessary, and move belongings away from the area. Then call a licensed plumber for same‑day service.
Generally no. They can corrode metal pipes, damage seals, and create hazardous fumes. Use a plunger or manual auger and call for professional drain cleaning if the clog persists.
Water hammer is a banging noise from abrupt flow changes. Causes include fast‑closing valves, high pressure, or missing/failed arrestors. Solutions: install hammer arrestors, adjust or add a PRV to 50–70 PSI, and secure loose pipes.
Ideal home pressure is about 50–70 PSI. If your pressure exceeds 80 PSI, code typically requires a PRV to protect fixtures and appliances. High pressure can cause leaks, noisy pipes, and premature failures.
Tanks store hot water for immediate use; they cost less upfront but have standby losses. Tankless units heat on demand, offering endless hot water, a smaller footprint, and higher efficiency, but higher initial cost and maintenance needs (descaling). The right choice depends on family size, usage patterns, and budget.
Electrical
Consider an upgrade if your panel is 20–30 years old, breakers trip frequently, there’s rust or heat damage, lights flicker under load, or you need more circuits for today’s appliances. A licensed electrician can assess capacity and safety.
Replace if you see frequent dimming/flickering, burning smells, scorch marks, warm outlets, brittle or cloth insulation, or aluminum branch wiring without proper remediation. These are fire and shock hazards that require prompt attention.
Place them near entry doors, garage doors, dark corners, walkways, and backyard gates. Mount at 6–10 feet high with a clear field of view, avoiding direct pointing at streets to reduce false triggers.
Verify license and insurance, check reviews and references, and insist on upfront, written quotes. Choose pros who explain options clearly and follow code. The right electrician prioritizes safety and transparency.
Trip causes include overloaded circuits, short circuits, and ground faults. Try unplugging high‑draw devices and redistributing loads. If trips persist, have an electrician test for damaged conductors, loose connections, or failing breakers, and consider adding dedicated circuits.
GFCIs are required in wet/damp areas (bathrooms, kitchens, garages, outdoors, basements) to prevent shock. AFCIs help prevent fires from arcing and are required in most living areas (bedrooms, living rooms, dining rooms). Your electrician can advise the best combination of breakers and receptacles to meet current code.
Common causes include loose neutral connections, overloaded circuits, failing lamps, voltage drop on long runs, or utility fluctuations. Frequent or whole‑home flicker warrants a panel and service connection inspection to prevent overheating hazards.
Older aluminum branch circuits (1960s–1970s) can loosen over time, increasing fire risk. Remediation options include COPALUM or AlumiConn pigtailing and CO/ALR‑rated devices. A licensed electrician should evaluate and update connections as needed.
Most Level 2 chargers require a dedicated 240V circuit (typically 40–60A). Your panel must have capacity, proper grounding, and an appropriate breaker. A site assessment ensures the right circuit size, wiring method, and code‑compliant installation.
Yes—modern homes contain sensitive electronics in HVACs, appliances, and smart devices. A whole‑home surge protector at the main panel helps protect circuits from utility and lightning surges. Pair with point‑of‑use protection for best results.
NFPA guidelines: smoke alarms in every bedroom, outside each sleeping area, and on every level (including basements). CO alarms outside sleeping areas and on each level if you have fuel‑burning appliances or an attached garage. Interconnected, hardwired units with battery backup are recommended.
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